Reporting climbing grades and grouping categories for rock climbing

Nick Draper*, Jorge Couceiro Canalejo, Simon Fryer, Tabitha Dickson, David Winter, Greg Ellis, Mike Hamlin, Jerry Shearman, Chris North

*Corresponding author for this work

Research output: Contribution to journalArticlepeer-review

40 Citations (Scopus)

Abstract

Rock climbing is an increasingly popular adventure sport with a growing research base. To date the growth of research and reporting styles has been somewhat haphazard and as a consequence comparison between studies can be problematic. The aim of this paper was to make suggestions about a number of changes that could be made to improve the consistency in reporting between studies. Included with this paper are two new tables, one each for male and female climbers. These provide comparative grading scales for use in reporting for future studies. These tables also provide a suggested framework for grouping climbers according to their ability. Using the tables researchers could group the climbers in their study by a category name (lower grade, intermediate, advanced, elite or higher elite climber) or by a number (level 1-5). In addition, the authors make recommendations about climber characteristics that could usefully be reported in future to assist comparison between studies. It would be helpful to readers if the self-reported, highest lead climbs (on-sight and redpoint) could be reported for a climbing group, along with the types of climbing regularly undertaken.

Original languageEnglish
Pages (from-to)273-280
Number of pages8
JournalIsokinetics and Exercise Science
Volume19
Issue number4
DOIs
Publication statusPublished - 15 Nov 2011
Externally publishedYes

Keywords

  • Ewbank scale
  • Rock climbing
  • Yosemite decimal scale
  • climbing grades
  • grade tables
  • sport climing

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