TY - JOUR
T1 - Reporting climbing grades and grouping categories for rock climbing
AU - Draper, Nick
AU - Canalejo, Jorge Couceiro
AU - Fryer, Simon
AU - Dickson, Tabitha
AU - Winter, David
AU - Ellis, Greg
AU - Hamlin, Mike
AU - Shearman, Jerry
AU - North, Chris
PY - 2011/11/15
Y1 - 2011/11/15
N2 - Rock climbing is an increasingly popular adventure sport with a growing research base. To date the growth of research and reporting styles has been somewhat haphazard and as a consequence comparison between studies can be problematic. The aim of this paper was to make suggestions about a number of changes that could be made to improve the consistency in reporting between studies. Included with this paper are two new tables, one each for male and female climbers. These provide comparative grading scales for use in reporting for future studies. These tables also provide a suggested framework for grouping climbers according to their ability. Using the tables researchers could group the climbers in their study by a category name (lower grade, intermediate, advanced, elite or higher elite climber) or by a number (level 1-5). In addition, the authors make recommendations about climber characteristics that could usefully be reported in future to assist comparison between studies. It would be helpful to readers if the self-reported, highest lead climbs (on-sight and redpoint) could be reported for a climbing group, along with the types of climbing regularly undertaken.
AB - Rock climbing is an increasingly popular adventure sport with a growing research base. To date the growth of research and reporting styles has been somewhat haphazard and as a consequence comparison between studies can be problematic. The aim of this paper was to make suggestions about a number of changes that could be made to improve the consistency in reporting between studies. Included with this paper are two new tables, one each for male and female climbers. These provide comparative grading scales for use in reporting for future studies. These tables also provide a suggested framework for grouping climbers according to their ability. Using the tables researchers could group the climbers in their study by a category name (lower grade, intermediate, advanced, elite or higher elite climber) or by a number (level 1-5). In addition, the authors make recommendations about climber characteristics that could usefully be reported in future to assist comparison between studies. It would be helpful to readers if the self-reported, highest lead climbs (on-sight and redpoint) could be reported for a climbing group, along with the types of climbing regularly undertaken.
KW - Ewbank scale
KW - Rock climbing
KW - Yosemite decimal scale
KW - climbing grades
KW - grade tables
KW - sport climing
UR - http://www.scopus.com/inward/record.url?scp=82555185023&partnerID=8YFLogxK
U2 - 10.3233/IES-2011-0424
DO - 10.3233/IES-2011-0424
M3 - Article
AN - SCOPUS:82555185023
SN - 0959-3020
VL - 19
SP - 273
EP - 280
JO - Isokinetics and Exercise Science
JF - Isokinetics and Exercise Science
IS - 4
ER -